Seiko’s Presage collection has long been a testament to the brand’s commitment to blending traditional Japanese artistry with mechanical watchmaking. Since its debut in 2016, the collection has consistently brought forward timepieces featuring exquisite dials crafted using techniques like Urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, and enamel, making these intricate arts accessible to a broader audience. The latest additions to the Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” line continue this legacy, drawing direct inspiration from a pivotal piece of horological history: the 1913 Laurel, Japan’s very first wristwatch.
These two new creations, the HCC005 Enamel Dial and the HCC006 Urushi Dial, are not merely watches; they are wearable tributes to Seiko’s foundational heritage, reinterpreted with contemporary proportions and construction while retaining a distinct historical charm. They underscore Seiko’s philosophy of not resting on its laurels, but rather building upon them with continuous innovation and respect for tradition.
The Enduring Legacy of the 1913 Laurel
The 1913 Laurel holds a significant place in the annals of Japanese watchmaking, representing the dawn of wristwatch production in the country. Its design, characterized by a clean dial and distinctive numerals, has remained remarkably fresh and influential for over a century. The new Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” watches directly honor this pioneering spirit, offering enthusiasts a chance to wear a piece of history that celebrates the very beginning of Japanese horology.
Both the HCC005 and HCC006 feature meticulously hand-made dials, a hallmark of the “Craftsmanship” line. This dedication to traditional techniques elevates these Presage creations beyond the ordinary, imbuing them with a unique liveliness and depth that machine-made dials often lack. The varied surfaces, subtle shine, and rich colors are a direct result of these time-honored methods, ensuring that each dial possesses a unique character.
Crafting Perfection: The Enamel Dial (HCC005)
The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” HCC005 Enamel Dial is arguably the closest modern interpretation of the 1913 Laurel. Its soft white, hand-made enamel background serves as a pristine canvas for the distinctive Italic Arabic numerals, with a striking bright red “12” providing a delicate yet clear focal point. This red numeral subtly breaks the monochromatic restraint of the dial, proving the timeless quality and expressive power of the original Laurel’s design.
Enamel, as a material for watch dials, is synonymous with longevity. When expertly crafted, an enamel dial can maintain its vibrant color and pristine appearance for generations. However, this durability comes at the cost of a demanding production process. The application and firing of enamel require immense precision, as even minor fluctuations in temperature or humidity can affect the outcome. The composition of the glaze itself may need constant adjustment to account for changing environmental conditions.
To achieve the pristine yet lively finish of the HCC005’s enamel dial, Seiko enlisted the expertise of master enamel artisans Mitsuru Yokosawa and Kazunori Uchiyama. Their objective is to create a clean, evenly finished white surface, a task that demands considerable experience and skill. The result is a watch face that appears soft and inviting, possessing a subtle depth that is both clear and captivating. A recessed center further draws the eye into the dial, enhancing its visual appeal. The case material for this model is stainless steel with a super-hard coating, ensuring durability and a refined finish.
The Depth of Urushi Lacquer (HCC006)
The second new creation, the Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” HCC006 Urushi Dial, takes a different artistic route to reinterpret the Laurel’s design. This model features a yellow-gold-toned PVD-coated steel case, which beautifully complements its deep black, hand-lacquered Urushi dial. Gold-colored elements provide a striking contrast against the dark background, while the hands and indices boast a pronounced texture and dimensionality, adding significant visual depth to the watch’s relatively simple layout.
Urushi lacquer is one of Japan’s oldest traditional crafts, a material that has been revered for centuries for its beauty and durability. The creation of an Urushi dial is a labor-intensive process, involving the repeated application and polishing of lacquer by hand. This meticulous work requires immense time and patience, but it is through this process that the material develops its characteristic depth and lustrous sheen. The high quality of both the lacquer and the craftsmanship ensures that an Urushi dial is incredibly durable, a key reason why this ancient art form continues to thrive today.
For the HCC006, the Urushi dials are crafted by Toshikazu Tsuji, his daughter Mitsuki Tsuji, and their dedicated team, working under the expert supervision of master Isshu Tamura. Their work is deeply rooted in the Echizen Urushi tradition, one of Japan’s most ancient lacquerware traditions. Mitsuki Tsuji has further expanded her practice through studies with Tamura in Kanazawa, bringing together the distinct traditions of Echizen and Kanazawa urushi. The Echizen tradition, originating from the Fukui Prefecture, emphasizes sturdy, utilitarian production for everyday use, often involving a division of labor. In contrast, Kanazawa urushi, from the Ishikawa Prefecture, is a luxury craft celebrated for its opulent, highly artistic maki-e (gold powder painting) and prominent use of gold leaf. This collaboration enriches the artistry of the HCC006’s dial, offering a unique blend of these historical techniques.
Contemporary Design Meets Traditional Artistry
Both new Presage models share the latest case design developed for the Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” line. The case measures 39.6mm in diameter, 12.8mm in thickness, and 46.8mm in length. This thoughtfully proportioned case ensures that the handmade dials are given ample visual space to shine, while its curved surfaces add depth to the otherwise restrained designs. A dual-curved sapphire crystal, treated with an antireflective coating on its inner surface, further contributes to the watch’s clean profile and enhances legibility. The case is rated for 30 meters of water resistance and features a transparent display back, allowing a view of the intricate movement within.
Powering these timepieces is the Seiko Caliber 6R5H, a reliable automatic movement with manual winding capabilities and hacking seconds. Operating at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz) and equipped with 24 jewels, this movement provides a robust power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Its accuracy is specified at +25 to -15 seconds in a normal temperature range, offering dependable performance for daily wear.
Each new Presage model is paired with an oil-tanned leather strap, crafted from leather sourced from Leather Working Group-certified tanneries. The tanning process infuses oils into the leather, resulting in a strap that is both supple and durable. The strap is secured with a stainless-steel three-fold clasp featuring a convenient push-button release, ensuring comfort and security on the wrist. These watches are designed for time-only functions, displaying hours, minutes, and a small seconds sub-dial.
Availability and Concluding Thoughts
The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” HCC005 Enamel Dial, priced at €1,400, and the HCC006 Urushi Dial, priced at €1,600, are set to join the collection as continuous-production models. They will be available through Seiko boutiques and selected retailers worldwide starting in September 2026. These releases represent a harmonious blend of historical reverence and modern watchmaking, offering a balanced mix of heritage and contemporary appeal. The combination of classically styled dials, executed with traditional Japanese artistry, and modern case proportions creates timepieces that are both elegant and versatile, suitable for a variety of occasions. Seiko continues to demonstrate its prowess in bringing the rich tapestry of Japanese craftsmanship to the global stage, one meticulously crafted dial at a time.
Written by Man of the Hour.