Reimagining the Field Watch
The field watch holds a storied place in horological history, born out of the demanding needs of military personnel during wartime. Its core tenets – robustness, reliability, and exceptional legibility – have cemented its status as a timeless archetype. From the original "Dirty Dozen" watches commissioned by the British Ministry of Defence during World War II, these timepieces have inspired countless iterations, often adhering closely to their utilitarian roots. However, in a market sometimes saturated with traditional interpretations, the challenge for modern watchmakers lies in honoring this heritage while offering something genuinely new and compelling.
This is where independent brands, particularly those with a flair for the unconventional, step in. Studio Underd0g, a name that has quickly risen to prominence in the contemporary British watchmaking scene, embodies this spirit of innovation. Known for its irreverent and playful approach, the brand has made a name for itself by pairing unique colors with quality finishing, all while rejecting the stuffiness often associated with traditional watch design. Their 02SERIES Gen2 collection stands as a testament to this philosophy, offering a refreshing and distinct take on the classic field watch.
The Evolution of a Modern Classic: 02SERIES Gen2
Founded by designer Richard Benc in 2020, Studio Underd0g has, in a short span, positioned itself as a leader in a new wave of British watchmaking. The brand's commitment to boundary-pushing innovation is evident in the 02SERIES, a collection that tips its hat to the historical Dirty Dozen while confidently venturing in its own direction. The Gen2, the second iteration of this field watch collection, introduces meaningful improvements that enhance both its aesthetic appeal and mechanical performance.
Studio Underd0g's approach is to create watches that are practical yet playful, with details that feel both unexpected and familiar. The 02SERIES Gen2 is not about outdoing history but rather adding a fresh, individualistic twist to a time-honored original, making it a compelling option for collectors seeking something beyond the standard issue.
Refined Proportions and Robust Construction
One of the notable enhancements in the 02SERIES Gen2 is its refined case sizing. Crafted from durable 316L stainless steel, the Gen2 features a slightly larger case diameter of 37.5mm compared to its predecessor, yet it boasts a slimmer profile with a height of 11.5mm. A lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm ensures the watch remains compact and comfortable on the wrist, with a gentle curve in the lugs designed to hug closely. This thoughtful re-proportioning contributes to a more ergonomic and versatile wear experience.
True to its field watch lineage, the 02SERIES Gen2 is built for adventure, offering a solid 100m of water resistance. This makes it suitable for a wide range of activities, from daily wear to more demanding outdoor pursuits, ensuring reliability in various conditions.
A Heart of Enduring Precision: The Movement
At the core of the 02SERIES Gen2 lies a significant mechanical upgrade: the Swiss Sellita SW200-2 M movement. While originally an automatic caliber, its conversion to a manually wound mechanism by removing the rotor is a deliberate nod to the hand-wound movements found in many historical field watches, including the original Dirty Dozen. This choice not only connects the watch to its heritage but also offers a more tactile and engaging winding experience for the wearer.
Beyond its manual winding charm, the SW200-2 M delivers enhanced performance. It provides a substantial 63 hours of uninterrupted power reserve, representing a 50% improvement over the original series. This extended power reserve ensures reliable timekeeping and convenience, allowing the watch to run for more than two and a half days on a single full wind.
The Art of the Dial: Depth and Vibrancy
Studio Underd0g truly distinguishes itself through its innovative and vibrant dial designs. The 02SERIES Gen2 dials are not merely colorful; they are captivating, possessing a dynamic quality that transcends the flat appearance of many traditional watch faces. This effect is achieved through a unique multi-layer construction:
First, a sunray base dial is meticulously coated with seven layers of Super LumiNova, ensuring exceptional brightness and longevity. A tinted sapphire disk is then placed one millimeter above this base, introducing the watch's distinctive color. The top layer, positioned above the sapphire disk, hosts the printed Arabic numerals, the precise railroad minute track, and the brand's name. The interaction between the lumed base layer and the tinted sapphire disk, held together by two visible, hand-placed pins, creates a remarkable sense of depth. This ingenious design gives the appearance of floating indices, adding a three-dimensional quality to the dial that is both visually engaging and highly legible.
Tailored Comfort: Straps and Fit
Completing the thoughtful package are the straps, supplied by The Strap Tailor. Each colorway in the 02SERIES Gen2 collection is paired with a complementary strap, chosen for both its aesthetic harmony and comfort. These straps feature quick-release spring bars for easy interchangeability and measure 18mm in width, tapering to 16mm.
Understanding that a perfect fit is crucial for comfort, Studio Underd0g offers these straps in three distinct sizes. The standard strap is recommended for wrist sizes between 6 and 7.75 inches. For those with smaller wrists, a small size accommodates a minimum wrist circumference of 5.25 inches, while a large size is available for wrists up to 8.5 inches. This attention to detail ensures a more tailored and comfortable wearing experience for a wider range of enthusiasts.
Crafted with Care: British Assembly
Adding to the appeal of the 02SERIES Gen2 is the brand's commitment to in-house assembly. All Studio Underd0g watches are assembled at their "D0ghouse" workshop located in Maidenhead, Great Britain. This process emphasizes quality control and a personal touch, with a single person handling all aspects of assembly from start to finish. As a unique detail, the initials of the assembler are included in the watch's paperwork upon purchase, providing a direct connection to the craftsmanship involved.
The 02SERIES Gen2 Collection: A Spectrum of Style
The 02SERIES Gen2 introduces new colorways while retaining popular options from the original series, offering a diverse palette for personal expression. Each variant leverages the unique dial construction and robust features of the collection.
Nightshade (Gen2)
This deep purple-hued variant offers a sophisticated yet playful aesthetic. The Nightshade features lumed hour markers and handsets, ensuring visibility in low-light conditions while maintaining its distinctive color profile during the day.
Red L0lly (Gen2)
The Red L0lly presents a vibrant, dark cherry-hued dial. Like the Nightshade, it is equipped with lumed hour markers and handsets, providing a striking visual impact that combines a rich color with practical luminescence.
Pink Lem0nade (Gen2)
A returning fan-favorite from the original series, the Pink Lem0nade is known for its bold and energetic character. This variant boasts a full-lume dial in addition to lumed markers and hands, creating a truly eye-catching glow in the dark.
Steffany Blue (Gen2)
Another beloved colorway from the original collection, the Steffany Blue offers a bright and refreshing presence. Similar to the Pink Lem0nade, it features a full-lume dial, complemented by lumed hour markers and hands, ensuring maximum legibility and a distinctive look around the clock.
A Fresh Perspective for the Modern Collector
Studio Underd0g's 02SERIES Gen2 successfully navigates the delicate balance between honoring tradition and embracing innovation. By combining a creative vision with quality components and distinctive design, the brand offers something genuinely original in a market often dominated by conventional approaches. The two-part case construction, the upgraded manual-wound movement, and the multi-layer dial assembly collectively provide enthusiasts with a very special option. With models currently available for $1,200 and backed by a two-year warranty, the 02SERIES Gen2 presents a compelling proposition for those looking to add a unique and playful field watch to their collection, directly from Studio Underd0g.
Written by the Man of the Hour Editorial Team.